Helmut Lang began as the eponymous brand of Austrian designer and artist Helmut Lang in 1986. Lang’s label was a key influence in the anti-fashion establishment movement of the 90s, with slashed T-shirts, denim, uniform influences and tech fabrics being the cool but chic, subversive but discreet aesthetic foundation of the brand. Although Lang left his namesake label in 2005, the brand’s past is still an important part of its present, and vintage Helmut is cult collector gold. The brand currently functions as a collective of designers overseen by editor Isabella Burley, often collaborating for capsule collections. Always keeping in mind Helmut Lang’s history as a highly unconventional and energetic label with the help of archival prints and the reintroduction of older iconic pieces, Helmut Lang defines itself as a past-conscious, forward-thinking brand.